Basic Photography Course

CHAPTER 11

BLACK-AND-WHITE PRINTING

In photography, printing is the term used to describe

the process of making positive images from negatives
(and in some instances, from film positives). The most

familiar example is the print made on a paper base. A
photographic print is made by passing light through the
negative onto a piece of paper coated with a
light-sensitive emulsion, very similar to film.

The two primary methods of making photographic

prints are contact printing and projection printing.
The principal difference in the two methods is the

method of exposing the paper. In contact printing, the
paper is physically in contact with the negative; while
in projection printing, the paper is separated from the
negative, and the image of the negative is projected onto
the paper by a lens. Because projection printing is
usually used to produce an enlarged image, it is
generally referred to as enlarging. Contact printing
produces positive images that are the same size as the
negative images. Enlarging usually produces positive
images that are larger than the negative image; however,
because optics are used in projection printing, the image
formed on the paper can also be made smaller or the
same size as the negative image.

The quality of the photograph can be varied during

printing through the choice of printing material,
exposure, and processing. In printing, some negative
defects may be compensated for, thereby eliminating the
reproduction of the defect in the print.

A well-planned, black-and-white or print room

should have at least the following material and
equipment arranged properly so the flow of work moves
easily from one stage to another:

A contact and/or projection printer (enlarger)

A sink large enough to accommodate the largest
trays used in the print room

Safelights

A set of print trays

A graduate

A thermometer

Print tongs

A wall clock with a second hand

Hand towels

Photographic printing papers are predominantly

blue and green sensitive and may be processed under the
appropriate safelight conditions. Consult the data sheet
packaged with the paper you are using or the
Photo-Lab-Index for the recommended safelight.

A minimum of three trays are needed for hand

processing prints. The trays should be arranged in the
sink from left to right-one each for developer, stop bath,

and fixing bath. The ideal setup has five trays-one each
for developer, stop bath, first fixer, second fixer, and a
water rinse. This setup saves chemicals and results in

better fixing of prints.

The chemistry used to develop and fix prints is

similar to and serves the same purposes as film
processing. When processing conditions are controlled
carefully, the processing specifications recommended
by manufacturers for their printing papers can be used
to provide excellent and consistent results.

The print developer used most commonly in Navy

imaging facilities is the llford Multigrade developer.
The recommended tray processing developing times

vary with the type of paper and developer being used.

With the developer at 68°F, resin-coated paper
development is complete in about 2 minutes. The image

appears in about 30 seconds. Because developer is

incorporated in the paper, the useful capacity of 1 gallon
of Ilford Multigrade developer (diluted 1:9) is about 400

8x10 prints, or equivalent.

Any standard stop bath serves sufficiently. A stop

bath may be used at all times, but it is necessary when
processing a large number of prints; furthermore, the use
of a stop bath after development prolongs the life of the
fixing bath. If no acid is available for a stop bath, a water
rinse should be used after the developer.

A standard fixing bath should be used to fix the

prints. Consult the Photo-Lab-Index for the various
prepared chemicals available for fixing prints. Follow
the manufacturer's instructions when fixing prints
because there are adverse effects in over-fixation as well
as underfixation. Overfixation tends to produce thinning

11-1

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Basic Photography Course

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DOFMaster for Windows On-line Depth of Field Calculator DOFMaster for Mobile Devices On-line Depth of Field Table Hyperfocal Distance Chart Articles FAQ Recommended Books Support Contact Links Home As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.	contents <- previous page next page -> CHAPTER 11 BLACK-AND-WHITE PRINTING In photography, printing is the term used to describe the process of making positive images from negatives (and in some instances, from film positives). The most familiar example is the print made on a paper base. A photographic print is made by passing light through the negative onto a piece of paper coated with a light-sensitive emulsion, very similar to film. The two primary methods of making photographic prints are contact printing and projection printing. The principal difference in the two methods is the method of exposing the paper. In contact printing, the paper is physically in contact with the negative; while in projection printing, the paper is separated from the negative, and the image of the negative is projected onto the paper by a lens. Because projection printing is usually used to produce an enlarged image, it is generally referred to as enlarging. Contact printing produces positive images that are the same size as the negative images. Enlarging usually produces positive images that are larger than the negative image; however, because optics are used in projection printing, the image formed on the paper can also be made smaller or the same size as the negative image. The quality of the photograph can be varied during printing through the choice of printing material, exposure, and processing. In printing, some negative defects may be compensated for, thereby eliminating the reproduction of the defect in the print. A well-planned, black-and-white or print room should have at least the following material and equipment arranged properly so the flow of work moves easily from one stage to another: A contact and/or projection printer (enlarger) A sink large enough to accommodate the largest trays used in the print room Safelights A set of print trays A graduate A thermometer Print tongs A wall clock with a second hand Hand towels Photographic printing papers are predominantly blue and green sensitive and may be processed under the appropriate safelight conditions. Consult the data sheet packaged with the paper you are using or the Photo-Lab-Index for the recommended safelight. A minimum of three trays are needed for hand processing prints. The trays should be arranged in the sink from left to right-one each for developer, stop bath, and fixing bath. The ideal setup has five trays-one each for developer, stop bath, first fixer, second fixer, and a water rinse. This setup saves chemicals and results in better fixing of prints. The chemistry used to develop and fix prints is similar to and serves the same purposes as film processing. When processing conditions are controlled carefully, the processing specifications recommended by manufacturers for their printing papers can be used to provide excellent and consistent results. The print developer used most commonly in Navy imaging facilities is the llford Multigrade developer. The recommended tray processing developing times vary with the type of paper and developer being used. With the developer at 68°F, resin-coated paper development is complete in about 2 minutes. The image appears in about 30 seconds. Because developer is incorporated in the paper, the useful capacity of 1 gallon of Ilford Multigrade developer (diluted 1:9) is about 400 8x10 prints, or equivalent. Any standard stop bath serves sufficiently. A stop bath may be used at all times, but it is necessary when processing a large number of prints; furthermore, the use of a stop bath after development prolongs the life of the fixing bath. If no acid is available for a stop bath, a water rinse should be used after the developer. A standard fixing bath should be used to fix the prints. Consult the Photo-Lab-Index for the various prepared chemicals available for fixing prints. Follow the manufacturer's instructions when fixing prints because there are adverse effects in over-fixation as well as underfixation. Overfixation tends to produce thinning 11-1 contents Basic Photography Course <- previous page next page ->	As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.
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